STYLETHREAD -- LET'S TALK SHOP!

Hermes

China & Japan

bumblebee · Dooney & Bourke

wow! that sounds like a great trip! i've only been to tokyo. it's not really like so off the beaten path, but i loved just wandering around and getting myself lost in the little lanes in Shibuya and looking at all the tiny shops. there was one whose theme was "disaster!!!" and they had all these t-shirts and other items that were like fireman, police, search and rescue themed. along the same lines, there is "gas panic" that sells clothing with a gas mask theme.

there is also the "coffee nazi" in ginza, who i don't think i could even direct you to, so hidden and unmarked is his tiny second floor shop. the woman we stayed with who lives there took us--she and her husband are americans by way of london and some other expat they know introduced them to this guy--going into his shop is like stepping back in time. he roasts all the beans by hand--which means using this huge sifter thing and holding them over an open flame and rotating the sifter--requiring the patience of job. you must observe the strictest of japanese manners or he will demand that you leave. anyway, it's the only really real cup of coffee to be had in the city, and hardly anyone knows it's there.

Hermes

quote:
Originally posted by: bumblebee
"wow! that sounds like a great trip! i've only been to tokyo. it's not really like so off the beaten path, but i loved just wandering around and getting myself lost in the little lanes in Shibuya and looking at all the tiny shops. there was one whose theme was "disaster!!!" and they had all these t-shirts and other items that were like fireman, police, search and rescue themed. along the same lines, there is "gas panic" that sells clothing with a gas mask theme. there is also the "coffee nazi" in ginza, who i don't think i could even direct you to, so hidden and unmarked is his tiny second floor shop. the woman we stayed with who lives there took us--she and her husband are americans by way of london and some other expat they know introduced them to this guy--going into his shop is like stepping back in time. he roasts all the beans by hand--which means using this huge sifter thing and holding them over an open flame and rotating the sifter--requiring the patience of job. you must observe the strictest of japanese manners or he will demand that you leave. anyway, it's the only really real cup of coffee to be had in the city, and hardly anyone knows it's there. "

perfect, bumblebee! this is exactly the kind of info I'm looking for. I will make sure I explore Shibuya - and the disaster shops sound like a hoot! what a great place for funky souveniers...

I hate to ask you to go out of your way, but is there any way you could email your friend to find out where that coffee shop is? If it's not too much trouble I would love to know how to track that down - even with a little more info, a business associate of my husband's may know where it is... I would LOVE to check that out...

Thanks again!

bumblebee · Dooney & Bourke

i will pull out my maps and try my best to figure it out for you--it's right on a main street, i just can't remember which one. and it's upstairs, off the street level, and completely unmarked. i don't know if the coffee nazi would be kind to you if you go in un-introduced (i am not kidding about the nazi part--it's like the soup nazi on "seinfeld"--you have to walk in, make your order, sit down, facing forward, no talking, no sudden movements) but it might be worth a shot. does your husband speak japanese? that would help.

oh! you probably already know this, but you should definitely go hang out for an afternoon at harajuku crossing--the bridge that goes right above harajuku station. the best people-watching in the world. it's the hangout for all of the costumed teenagers, like the goth-lolitas. it was probably my favorite place in tokyo.

-- Edited by bumblebee at 13:52, 2005-03-22

Hermes

he speaks very limited Japanese... I am thinking if we rustle up a colleague of his while we're there it's possible to go in... even if not, my husband is familiar enough dealing within Japanese environments and people that we could at least try on our own, even if we're turned away (we can rehearse our words before we go in.) I love the coffee nazi part - that's part of what makes it a memorable experience! it's this kind of stuff that make for the best memories and stories from a trip. that's why I don't like tour groups - you are marched into all the tourist catering places (and only the ones that pad the pocket of the tour group operator) and you miss out on all the cool experiential stuff - the stuff that really exposes you the most to the culture.

if you could even locate it on a mapquest map that would be great (again - only if it's not a lot of trouble!)

http://www.mapquest.com/maps/map.adp?formtype=address&searchtype=address&country=JP&addtohistory=&city=tokyo

bumblebee · Dooney & Bourke

i can't find it on that map, nor the other maps i could pull up online. let me look at the maps i am familar with at home when i get home tonight, and i should be able to give you something. it's going to be imprecise, though--like look for this sign and go up the stairs--there's not really an address or anything and i don't think it has a name.

mckenke · BCBG

My SO and I went to China and Japan in September. In Japan, we basically just loved to wander around and shop. This website is a bit overwhelming, but has some good info on shops in the different areas http://superfuture.com/city/city/city.cfm?city=1 I really liked the shopping in the daikanyama neighborhood because it was less crowded and had tons of great stuff. Of course, you have to shop around in harajuku and shinjuku as well. I don't know if you are planning on traveling outside of Tokyo, but Kyoto is beautiful. We also took a side trip outside of Kyoto to Mt Koya which is a small town with a bunch of buddhist monestaries. You can stay in the monestary and they serve you traditional vegetarian buddhist meals and you can see their worship services in the morning. There is also this large graveyard there (sounds creepy, but it is cool). The whole thing is lit by lanterns and you can walk through it, it is very peacful and interesting.

As for Beijing and Shanghai. I wasn't a huge fan of Shanghai, so I don't have many reccs. We did visit one temple that was cool, but I am blanking on the name. As for Beijing, you have to see the forbidden city. We also stayed at the Red Capital Inn (they have a website). The whole place is decorated with communist kitchy stuff, but it is great and not in a neighborhood full of tourists. They also have another branch called the Red Capital Ranch which is out by some of the unfinished parts of the Great Wall. They will provide transportation out there and hiking on the Great Wall is amazing! Usually I am not one for touristy sites, but the ranch is out there and no one else is around it is basically just you ( and if you want someone from the hotel guiding you). You can also ask have them drive you out to some of the parts of the wall that have been redone. One of them has a huge slide that comes down from the wall, which was weird, but actually really fun.

These are just my first thoughts. Feel free to PM me if you want more details. Oh, and we found that the Frommers guide was helpful. There are also some map books that my SO used and really liked. I am not a map user (I prefer to wander), so I would have to go home and check the names if you are interested. Sorry for the long email.

bumblebee · Dooney & Bourke

reading all of this is making me want to go back so bad!! i pulled out my map book this morning and i will PM you the info for the coffee place. i also wanted to let you know, there was a big profile on beijing in last weekend's (3/13) LA Times travel section, all about the new things being built there and looked like it had lots of recs for restaurants, etc. i am sure you could call up the paper and order a copy to be sent to you.

Joina · Kenneth Cole

detroit - I just spent 7 months working Shanghai and got back to the US about two days ago. I actually really loved Shanghai, but for different reasons. It is really not a sightseeing city, but more a nightlife/shopping city. i think mckenke was talking about either the Jade Buddha temple or Jin An temple, both very nice.

For shopping, you will HAVE to go to my tailor or get coats made at the fabric market. You can get a smashing cashmere-wool coat for the total of $60 and they are pretty well made. I would not recommend making pants or suits at the fabric market tho. My tailor does and amazing job at copying anything you want. I took her pictures from shopbop and she would copy to the last detail...

As for nightlife, I would try Jean-Georges or Laris for high end restaurant. My favorite lounge is Mint and Bar Rouge.

Hermes

mckenke, the graveyard rec is actually a good one! I love walking through Pere Lachaise in Paris, and found the Jewish cemetary in Prague very facinating and moving - so that's a great suggestion.

Joina, how long does it take to get a coat made? I have 3 days in Shanghai (because it is a shopping/nightlife city) so I wonder if it will be enough time to have that done...

Joina · Kenneth Cole

quote:
Originally posted by: detroit
"mckenke, the graveyard rec is actually a good one! I love walking through Pere Lachaise in Paris, and found the Jewish cemetary in Prague very facinating and moving - so that's a great suggestion. Joina, how long does it take to get a coat made? I have 3 days in Shanghai (because it is a shopping/nightlife city) so I wonder if it will be enough time to have that done..."

They can usually make a coat in 3 days if you ask them to express it. Tell them you are leaving and they will make sure to finish it on time.

To get to the fabric market, get a cab and tell them "don jia du" and they should know it. When you pick up your coat, try it on and don't be shy to tell them if you need something fixed, they should be able to do it on the spot.

Have fun! I know I did when I was there

Hermes

quote:
Originally posted by: Joina
" They can usually make a coat in 3 days if you ask them to express it. Tell them you are leaving and they will make sure to finish it on time. To get to the fabric market, get a cab and tell them "don jia du" and they should know it. When you pick up your coat, try it on and don't be shy to tell them if you need something fixed, they should be able to do it on the spot. Have fun! I know I did when I was there "

cool - I am definitely going to do that - excellent suggestion - I may make my husband get one as well... can you provide the info for your tailor? you can PM me if you want...

your other suggestions were great as well - thanks!

Joina · Kenneth Cole

Getting things done with my tailor usually takes 2 weeks (she might be able to do it in 1 week) so I'm not sure if you have time. The difference is she does fittings to ensure the clothes fit the way you want.

Her name is Danielle, address: 99 Fa Hua Zhen Lu (between Fan Yu Lu and He Shan Lu).